Visiting Samoa reveals a little village, Saleaula, which sits entirely on barren lava.
“PARADISE in heaven.” Those three words swirl around my head in the darkness.
I'M staying at the Vacations Beach Fales in Savaii, in my motherland of Samoa. It's a resort made up of several traditional huts, called fale.
IT'S 30C outside and yet there's a sudden chill in the air. We've just entered what is arguably one of the most spiritually sacred places in Samoa.