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WINE REVIEW: There's a bold new player in Disneyland

THE heartland of the Yarra Valley has sometimes been described as Disneyland. When you consider the number of helicopters visiting multi-million dollar properties that are restaurants, wedding reception venues and wineries combined, you start to wonder if you've stepped through the looking glass. So starting a new label there is a bold move. Warramunda Estate had its first vintage in 2013 after many years selling grapes to others and wants its own winery by next year.

Marsanne, 2016

Marsanne is a delicious wine when young, even better aged. Preserved lemon, grilled lime, honeycomb, brown spice and a not unpleasant briny kelp. Intensely flavoured with powerful bittersweet citrus, offset by a savoury rosemary spiced roast chicken saltiness with a nutty yet crystal clear finish. Not for the faint-hearted but will reward those seeking new adventures.

RATING: 9/10

RRP: $35

ALC: 12.8%

Pinot Noir, 2015

From the classy 2015 vintage. This displays earthy dark chocolate with cola, fresh picked herbs, blueberries and blackberries. Fine boned with sinewy flesh, the dark chocolate leads to fruits of the forest with a "burnt ends” meaty finish. Cork sealed.

Rating: 8.5/10

RRP: $45

ALC: 13%

Syrah, 2015

Syrah is shiraz, but generally labelled as such to indicate a lighter, more elegant style of wine. This over-delivers on the aromatic front: bold couverture chocolate, raspberry, blueberry, white pepper and rosewater. Medium to full bodied; spice-driven flavours from the whole bunch fermentation with plenty of red currant and blueberry sprinkled with white pepper. Finishes with fine grained tannins.

Rating: 9/10

RRP: $40

ALC: 14.2%

Available from warramundaestate.com.au. More at vinonotebook.com.



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